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Makah tribe, Neah Bay welcome visitors to northwest tip of Washinton's Olympic ...

Seeing eight bald eagles at one time from a motel window on Washington's Olympic Peninsula seems pretty special.

Until the guy who runs the place tells his story.

"We watched two eagles fight to the death," says Gordon Bentler of the Cape Motel at Neah Bay. "They locked talons, then tumbled around on the beach flapping their wings. One finally got an advantage, reached its beak to the other's throat and that was it.

"It was gruesome, but it was nature in action."

Not everything is so stark here in the land of the Makah , the first Northwest native tribe to have contact with European sailing ships in the late 1700s.

Misty clouds hang over the Sitka spruce forest. A gentle rain always seems to be falling. Both mute the stark edges of the rugged landscape, where forests grow in an impenetrable mat, mud blankets the understory, cliffs drop straight to the Pacific and waves crash onto sandy beaches.

Unlike some other tribes, the Makah are fortunate to inhabit their ancestral home, at Washington's northwest tip, where the Strait of Juan de Fuca blends its waters with the open ocean.

A warm welcome

The Makah are a warm, inviting people, eager to share their special place on Earth with visitors from outside.

The ancestral Makah found that it was easiest to get around on the water, so their culture depended on ocean-going canoes carved out of cedar trees. They continue the tradition to this day, though, of course, they have modern roads and drive pickups like other peninsula residents.

When I arrived for a recent visit, the village of Neah Bay (population 1,000) buzzed with activity as tribes from around the Northwest gathered at the beginning of their annual Canoe Journey. Among the last to arrive was the Warm Springs canoe from Oregon.

After 400 shared dinner, they sang and danced at the community center, then crawled into rain-soaked tents on the beach for a few hours of sleep.

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